Greek Wines
Sips to Wake up your Soul
Domaine Porto Carras Wines
By: Linda Kissam
Part one of a three-part series on Greek wines.
Given even half a chance Greece has the potential to become one of the world’s leading premium wine-producing countries. They won’t do it by mimicking the wine styles of other thriving wine regions across the world, they’ll do it by developing their own wines that speak to the unique taste and place of Greece’s native grapes. Quite a few of their varietals are capable of greatness producing wines with a pureness of character that could – and should – only be described as Greek.
I think today’s sophisticated wine drinkers are attracted by a certain style of red wine expressed in Cabernet Sauvignons. It seems the globalized palate likes a red wine that is dark and nose intense with ripe fruit aromas to be “it.” “It” might be described it as a full, rich, extracted experience while still velvety on the palate. I can hear your oohs and ahhs beaming to me from the Internet.
Then again some newer palates love the soft whisper and elegance of a wine like a Pinot Noir. Think cherry power, smooth with a big dose of opulence. Finesse that speaks to the varietal character offer a captivating antidote to everyday sameness.
Greece can actually offer wines like those mentioned above. They do it through 8 main varietals. Keep these in mind as I take you through an afternoon wine tasting that was part of a Naoussa Vineyard promotional touring program that breezed through San Diego County a short time ago.
I tasted over 20 wines in about 2.5 hours. Wish I could have done more sipping, but with this number of wines, its review time; so I taste, make notes and spit (or dump) into a bucket. Some of the varietals below were represented, some not. All wines of the day were presented by representatives from the region or winery being poured. This added an authenticity to the afternoon event.
A special thank you to PR maven Patricia Schneider for arranging this special experience.
1. Agiorgitiko: This grape produces silky reds with black-cherry flavors.
2. Assyrtiko: A minerally, bone-dry, citrus-edged white wine. A favorite of mine.
3. Athiri: White variety often presenting with scents of stone fruits, like nectarines.
4. Malagousia (also spelled Malagouzia): Jasmine-scented with melon overtones white. It was on the brink of extinction before winemaker Evangelos Gerovassiliou began growing it again.
5. Moscofilero: Think white wine with tangerine and blossom scents.
6. Roditis: Stylish and light-bodied, the pink-skinned grape produces crisp whites and rosés.
7. Xinomavro: A lovely red with floral and spice aromas, firm tannins, and animated fruit. One of the great divas of the Greek vineyard, it is unpredictable, demanding, and difficult to deal with, both in the vineyard and in the winery. Much of the tasting was built around this Pinot type grape.
8. Limnio: As a varietal, Limnio produces full bodied red wines with moderate tannins and acidity levels and a distinctive mineral aroma. The grapes have the ability to produce high must weights that translates into high alcohol levels.
The Tasting
We started with three whites in the $15 retail range. I knew I was going to like them as they were from Domaine Porto Carras one the largest organic vineyards in Greece and one that I had visited last year while in Greece. These vintners know what they are doing.
2012 Melissanthi (blend of 50% Assyrtiko and 50% Athiri), $15: A dry white perfect for a warm summer day. Peachy and smooth with minerality.
2012 Assyrtiko, $15. Mineral notes reminiscent of a lovey New Zealand Sav Blanc.
2013 Malagouzia, $15. Intense nose with undertones of exotic fruits, yellow color, and apricot and peach flavors. I think I also caught a snippet of mint.
Next, we were on to the reds from Domain Porto Carras.
2011 Limnio, $14, Dry and full bodied and somewhat herbaceous – which in this case is all good. It’s aged in French oak and presents with notes of dark berries and spice.
2010 Magnus Baccata Domaine Porto Carras, $19. Smooth and lush with dense, ripe and balanced style. Somewhat earthy blend of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Excellent choice to seek out.
Chateau Porto Carras, $30. A blend of 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot and 5% of the native Limnio. Big wine aged in French wine barrels. A nose of black fruit, and spice, with some bacon and smoke notes thrown in for good measure.
It’s worth you time to search out great quality Greek wines. They are still hard to find in quantity in local wine shops but try Bev Mo, Lincoln Fine Wines, Hi-Time Wine Cellars and Du Vin Fine Wines (75+ wines last time I checked) . If that doesn’t work, the Internet is a great place to find them. Try first at Wine Chateau. Their service and price is hard to beat.