Today I have a unique treat in store for you. One of my most trusted culinary “guides” Andrew Harris joins us with an insiders peek into an upscale gourmet 7-course menu of pure indulgence with foie gras in every course including dessert. Andrew was also able to secure a special recipe for you. Bon Appetite!
Andrew Harris
Andrew Harris has produced a notable series of food, beverage, and travel shows for AM radio in Southern California since 1998. He has previously covered the restaurant scene in Southern California for the James Beard Foundation publications (New York-based) for seventeen years.
C.H.E.F.S. for Foie Gras Dinner
By guest columnist Andrew Harris
Paul Benevides of Temecula's VLR Vineyards and his son, Chef Chris Benevides, flank Chef Pascal Olhats, the dean of French Chefs in Orange County
As a serious diner you know you’re in for a real treat when a group of highly distinguished chefs volunteer their time to get together and collaborate on a magnificent meal supporting a cause they are passionate about. Such was the case on May 14th when the Orange County, CA contingent of C.H.E.F.S. (The Coalition for Humane and Ethical Farming Standards) assembled at Haven Gastropub in Old Town Orange to “Fight for Foie” creating and serving a sumptuous 7-course menu of pure indulgence with foie gras in every course including dessert. Guests had the option of enjoying a carefully chosen beverage pairing with each course which was a premium wine, craft beer, or specialty cocktail. Dinners like this supporting C.H.E.F.S. (100 prominent California chefs and growing) are being hosted by noteworthy restaurants throughout California until the end of June.
Foie gras (very expensive) is one of the premier luxury foods of the Old Word and is a particular delicacy in France. It is the specially fattened liver of a particular breed of farm-raised goose or duck and has an incredibly rich flavor with a satiny-smooth texture. For a food aficionado it’s one of life’s ultimate guilty pleasures!
Back in 2004 the California State Legislature with the support of former Governor Schwarzenegger passed an obscure law outlawing foie gras and the bird’s other usable by-products in California as of July 1, 2012. The only two producers of foie gras in the United States are family farmers and small business people and one is based in Sonoma County. By all accounts the California foie gras producer (beloved by the restaurant community) will be put out of business. What C.H.E.F.S is endeavoring to accomplish (including Greg Daniels, the executive chef/partner of Haven Gastropub) is to enact new legislation setting realistic standards for humane and ethical farming of foie gras. It should be noted career chefs have great respect for the welfare and treatment of animals that are ultimately used in the preparation of their dishes.
In addition to Host Chef Greg Daniels the all-star brigade of talent in the kitchen encompassed Chef Tony Alcazar (The Bottle Room) Chef Ryan Carson (Pri-ve and previously the chef de cuisine at AnQi by Crustacean at South Coast Plaza,) Chef John Cuevas (The Crow Bar and Kitchen and formerly the executive chef of Montage Beverly Hills,) Chef Yvon Goetz (The Winery Restaurant & Bar,) Chef Pascal Olhats (Brasserie Pascal at Fashion Island and the unofficial dean of French chefs in the OC,) and Pastry Chef Santanna Salas (Haven Gastropub.) Haven’s general manager, Scottie Barnett, developed the creative beverage pairings in concert with each chef.
The pure enjoyment of the pleasures of the table is an activity that naturally brings people together. During the reception I met an engaging father and son duo from Temecula who drove an hour and twenty minutes to partake of the evening. Paul Benevides is a gentleman vineyard proprietor (primarily Sangiovese) and his son, Chris, is an all-around utility manager and culinary consultant at Anthony’s Ristorante in Murrieta and a graduate of the well-respected Southern California School of Culinary Arts. They graciously invited me to join them at their table.
The stellar meal worthy of a true gastronome started with a pre- amuse of a generous bite of foie gras mousse with fig. Next was Tony Alcazar’s unexpected amuse-bouche foie gras parfait with pineapple, onion marmalade, and hazelnuts matched with Trade Winds Tripel from The Bruery (a local microbrewery.)
John Cuevas then presented a standout pan seared foie gras with home-made oatmeal cookies, first-of-the season cherries and a white chocolate syrup. That was paired with a Belgium Oude Kriek Vieille. Foie gras soup ? Why of course. The always inventive Pascal Olhats next served a rich broth of late harvest wine and duck confit with sautéed foie gas de canard. The beverage accompaniment was Zaca Mesa Chardonnay. “Duck, Duck …Goose” followed from Ryan Carson. With the duck and goose was watermelon, basil, kaffir lime, vanilla pickles, and black garlic. This was matched with “The Belle and Beau” cocktail of cucumber-infused gin with bacon syrup, red wine vinegar, and grapefruit bitters. The presentation was highly dramatic with all the bright colors of the food positioned on the white plate.
Santa Barbara spot prawns
The next course was artfully plated Santa Barbara spot prawns with fennel, kumquat, pancetta, and foie gas air from host chef Greg Daniels. Astrolabe Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand accompanied the spot prawns. The heads were left on the prawns for extra flavor. The final savory course was an ambitious and well-executed duo of squab and foie with crispy porcini and baby leek polenta with a Pinot Noir-ginger essence from Yvon Goetz. The pairing was a Vinas 3 Pinot Noir from California.
You wouldn’t expect an extravagant duo of over-the top foie gras desserts but Pastry Chef Santanna Salas brought down the curtain on the evening with an appropriately decadent flourish. The dessert was a rich and creamy foie gras cheesecake along with a chocolate dipped foie gras ice cream centered bon bon. Wow! The dessert wine matched with this was a Malm Cellars Late Harvest Sauvignon from Sonoma. This was a celebratory evening of culinary gusto with a great sense of purpose. Many of the chefs worked their way around the room during service amiably chatting with the guests. The accommodating general manager of Haven Gastropub, Scottie Barnett, also touched all the tables during dinner. Host Chef Daniels brought out, and introduced, each member of the culinary brigade during the evening earning a well-deserved, boisterous round of applause for the group.
The Menu
Amuse
Foie Gras Parfait pineapple “jell-o” and caramelized onions
Tony Alcazar, The Bottle Room
Pan Seared Foie Gras homemade oatmeal cookies, first of season cherries, white chocolate syrup
John Cuevas, The Crow Bar and Kitchen
Broth of Late Harvest Wine & Duck Confit sautéed foie gras de canard
Chardonnay / Zaca Mesa 2009/ Santa Ynez Valley, Califronia
Pascal Olhats, Pascal Restaurant, Brasserie Pascal
Duck, Duck… Goose watermelon, thai basil, kaffir lime, vanilla pickles, black garlic
Ryan Carson, ‘Pri-vē
Intermezzo
Santa Barbara Spot Prawns fennel, kumquat, pancetta, foie gras foam
Sauvignon Blanc / Astrolabe 2010/ Marlborough New Zealand
Greg Daniels, Haven Gastropub
Duo of Squab & Foie crispy porcini and baby leek polenta, pinot noir-ginger essence
Pinot Noir/ “Vinas 3″/ Row Eleven 2008/ California
Yvon Goetz, The Winery Restaurant & Wine Bar
Foie Gras Cheesecake & Foie Bon Bon (See Recipe Below) vanilla crumble, hibiscus gel, micro tangerine lace
Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc/ Malm Cellars 2010/ Dry Creek Calley. California
Santanna Salas, Pastry Chef, Haven Gastropub
Foie Gras Cheesecake
Haven Gastropub
Compliments of Pastry Chef Santanna Salas
Foie Gras Cheesecake
Ingredients
5 lbs. cream cheese 1 lbs. foie gras 1 lb & 12 oz sugar 3/4 oz. salt 1 & 1/2 oz. cornstarch 1/8 oz. vanilla extract 1 lbs. whole eggs 6 oz. egg yolk
Method
Add foie in bag to immersion circulator at 143 degrees f for 25 min, once pulled from water bath, all to come to room temperature.
Cream the cream cheese and the sugar until light and fluffy making sure to scrape down the bowl often.
Add all ingredients in the bag of foie (fat included) to cream cheese and sugar mixture. Continue to mix until all the way combined, again scrapping down the bowl often.
Combine whole eggs, egg yolks, and vanilla extract together, add to mixture.
Combine salt and cornstarch, and add to mixture last, continue to mix until all ingredients are combined, scrapping down the bowl.
Bake at 325 degrees, in a water bath, in half sheet tray until set. (Usually 20 minutes.)
(Makes 24 portions cut 2 inches by 4 inches.)
